Gamjatang

Gamjatang does not have a single, clearly established origin story. Pork backbones cost less than lean cuts, but simmering them for a long time produces a rich broth, and the widely accepted explanation is that the dish took root as a meal and drinking food in busy markets and entertainment districts with many laborers.

There are also different theories about the word “감자” (gamja, “potato”) in the name. Some say it refers to the actual potatoes added to the stew, while another account says pork backbone cuts were once called “감자뼈” (gamja-ppyeo, “gamja bones”). Today, some restaurants use little or no potato, but the backbone, ugeoji (outer cabbage leaves), and perilla remain at the heart of the flavor.

At Gamjatang restaurants, the pot may arrive fully cooked, or diners may continue simmering it at the table. After eating some of the meat and ugeoji, many people add Ramen noodles or Fried Rice to the remaining broth. Fried Rice is the usual finale: the broth is reduced slightly, then rice, shredded dried seaweed, and sesame oil are added and pressed against the bottom of the pan to crisp up.

The broth’s first impression is less about the heat of chili powder and more about the savory, weighty flavors of pork-bone broth, ugeoji, and perilla seed powder. First-time diners may find the large bones difficult to handle, but in a well-simmered backbone, the meat comes away easily with chopsticks. A proper Gamjatang tastes slightly thick and earthy rather than overly clear.